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Sopwith 1½ Strutter - Wikipedia

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About this product. Brand new: lowest price The lowest-priced brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging where packaging is applicable. It was the first British airplane to use a synchronized machine-gun for the pilot - able to fire through the rotating propeller - and the first two-seater with a "puller" engine.

It served with both British air services and was also widely used by French aviation.

See details. See all 3 brand new listings. Buy It Now. There is also the absence of locating pins and alignment tabs on the main parts there are small holes for the struts so positioning will have to be interpreted from the instruction sheet — even the lower wing parts have to be measured out for precise placement as provided in the instruction sheet! The parts are quality parts with no flash and while this is no kit for a beginner it should go together quite well, just on first impressions before building starts.

The two main sprues seem to hold parts for most, if not all, of the versions that Toko have released see some boxart examples below while an additional very small sprue contains the cockpit covers for the single seat versions so I assume this is the replacement sprue for the two-seat versions as other parts for two seat versions such as an extra cockpit interior set are all inside this box.

The bottom of the box provides a colourful painting option with Humbrol numbers and names for painting instructions — each labelled with a letter which is used in the instructions for corresponding painting information. Here are the various boxarts:. Two A4 sheets folded to make a small A5 booklet form the instructions.

The front page contains brief aircraft history and specification data and inside the cover is a full sprue diagram showing the layout of all the parts and the identifying numbers as they are not actually numbered on the sprue itself. The inside sheet is then essentially devoted to the half a dozen assembly steps which provide fairly clear and precise assembly directions for the kit and on the whole also positioning of the parts. In the case of a couple of instances precise millimetre measurements are provided for the exact placement of parts — for example the lower wing halves.

Painting information is provided also for some individual components during instruction which are labelled by a letter and cross referenced to a quoted paint number and name from the Humbrol range. The engine is the first part of assembly which includes a cylinder block attached to a cylindrical shaft unit that is sub assembled together. The cylinders were painted aluminium with a touch of black wash thrown in to try and show some oil marks. Next came the cockpit. This consists of a full floor frame, realistic looking rudder pedals, control column and seat and these fit very well.

The framework was painted in natural wood and leather applied to the seat and rudder pedals — unfortunately though all this great work disappears later when the cockpit cover is put on. Using Revell Contacta I did notice how quickly the parts grabbed together and started drying almost immediately which was in some ways good, but I had to ensure the positioning was almost perfect on first attempt. The inside of the fuselage halves were painted in Matt Linen with the structural framework picked out with natural wood and then the cockpit assembly was affixed to one fuselage half.

Wings of Glory WWI Sopwith 1.5 Strutter Collishaw/Portsmouth Model - Expansion

The instructions were very vague in exact placement of the cockpit so it was a matter of testing it against the inside of the fuselage to a point where it was clearly in the right position, taking into account that the top of the seat should just reach the cockpit opening, and also being able to affix the other fuselage half with ease. The fuselage halves go together quite well but needed to be held in place while they dried — as already alluded to above, the Revell Contacta ensured this did not take long but join lines were apparent and had to be sanded.


Using the measurements provided on the instruction sheet the lower wings were then affixed precisely to the model — again they had to be held in place so they could dry correctly and again this did not take long before I could leave the model to cure. Since the interplane struts will be needed to affix the top wing piece later it is of course imperative to get the lower wing sections placed exactly as instructed.

The cockpit cover was then placed and needed smoothing on the sides to blend into the top of the fuselage. The tailplane is trapped underneath the rudder and needed a bit of dry fit testing to get it into the right position. But the hardest aspect of this step was affixing the twin mounted machine guns on an A-frame just in front of the cockpit.

The A-frame was delicately placed against the tiny locating holes just visible on the fuselage with the front of the frame as vertical as possible and then left to dry.

No matter how hard I tried I found it almost impossible to glue the machine guns on the mount — even with the supposed fast tack-drying Revell contacta, as soon as the fingers were taken away the guns would slide over and off. I tried Humbrol glue and fast setting super glue without any real luck so in the end I had only one option and that was to hold the damn guns in place for as long as it took for them to dry enough to stay in place when I took my hands away — and that proved to be the major setback in getting this kit completed in a timely manner.

In hindsight, another option may have been to attach the guns on the A-frame before placing the whole mount onto the aircraft.

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Best also to check references to ensure the guns are angled correctly bearing in mind the top wing needs to fit onto the model in front of the gun mount. The next step is mounting the upper wing piece and here I worked out that I am severely in need of a bit more WW1 biplane experience because I did not fare too well! It is always an object of contention in how one should go about affixing the top wing on biplanes and obviously it will come down to personal tried and true methods.

Some say to attach and let the struts dry first and then just put the wing on top of them, others believe everything needs to still be wet and flexible enough to move the top wing into position and finally, some will say only to connect the fuselage struts in front of the cockpit , affix the top wing in place and then add the wing struts on later by sliding them into position.

My method was a combination of the first and second statements above, with the fuselage struts fixed into place and the wing struts only tack dry. I spent an inordinate amount of time moving the top wing into place and I must admit it is not one of my best efforts, you can see it slightly off canter when looking at it either side on or top view.

I did find attaching the top wing very difficult but I feel this is probably more out of not having made a biplane for some time than anything else! Those who are well used to biplane kits should not have too much problems with this step, the struts are of course small and easy to snap but with care they do go onto the model quite well. I had much more success with the wheel base — ironically a traditional part of these kits I usually stuff up!

Sopwith Strutter

I actually sub assembled the whole undercarriage: trapping the axle between the inverted A-frames and then adding the wheels on afterward, making sure they were of course straight when placed onto a flat surface. The frames were then affixed to the bottom of the fuselage and I found this quite challenging because the frames need to be affixed at an angle as the axle is a few millimetres wider than the fuselage! While holding down one frame the other would pop out! Having had so much problem with the gun mount as noted above I was determined that the undercarriage was not going to give me any similar grief!

Alternatively you could affix the frames onto the fuselage first at the correct angle after measuring the axle and then use the slight flexibility of the frames once dry to slip the axle into place and then you can be sure that the wheels will be attached straight!